The following story was sent in by a Goolwa resident, Erica Dicker, about her road trip to Milang. I hope you enjoy it! Thank you Erica.
Just typical, the day I decide to go for a scenic drive to Milang the sky is overcast, threatening rain. Well, you can’t predict the weather, especially here on the South Coast. All wrapped up in beanie, scarves, gloves and boots, not to mention thermal underwear, I could possibly be mistaken for an Arctic explorer or, at a distance, a Canadian bear. Large, brown and cumbersome. Car boot is filled with essentials, folding chair, picnic basket, blankets, coffee thermos and a brolly, useful for wet or sunny days. Into car goes Jack, and his survival pack, water, snacks, two coats, prepared for rain or sun, lead, muzzle and poop bags; I am, after all, a responsible pet owner. House locked, time to go. Car heater on, seat belt secure, CD playing a soft jazz compilation. Blast, here comes the rain. So, with windscreen wipers working overtime, and engine purring, it’s off we go.
Heading out of Goolwa, along a wet, slippery, leaden road, the famed haunted house of Currency Creek comes in to view. Once deserted and neglected, many tales were told of flickering lights seen in upstairs rooms, after midnight. It’s now a thriving event venue. Fortunately, the sun breaks through the dark clouds, rain ceases and it’s turning into a pleasant day for my road trip. On to Winery Road. This is, for me, the scenic route to Milang, as it passes vineyards, lovely in the thin sunshine, leaves turning from summer green to autumn’s russet gold. Lining the roadside, native yakka and bracken, ahead Watchalunga canoe tree, a sad, grey sentinel.
I’ve driven this road many times, but only recently discovered Watchalunga Native Reserve and its purpose – protecting endangered native flora and fauna, such as the southern emu wren and the bell frog. Sad to think as a resident of the Fleurieu for many years, I know so little of its natural beauty. At Finniss River ford I’m relieved to find tall river reeds have allowed only a trickle of water through, so it’s an easy crossing. Over the next causeway I glimpse the scenic Finniss estuary wending its way to the lower Murray. Onward to the riverside town of Clayton Bay, passing olive groves, bee hives, roadside stalls and the green and gold of early blossoming wattle.
The peaceful township of Clayton Bay has Stobie poles decorated with colourful mosaics, and a sheltered bay and wharf, where PS Oscar W occasionally docks. On up to Jones’ Lookout, previously a huge water storage tank. The concrete base is now re-purposed into a low-walled lookout with superb floor mosaic by talented local artist, Michael Tye. The air is so clear – and what view, across the calm river to wetlands and Hindmarsh Island! Watching purple swamp hens forage along edge of limestone cliffs, there’s time for a quick comfort walk for Jack, coffee and cookie for the driver. Leaving behind the wetlands and high red cliffs of Clayton Bay, it’s on to Milang. The vast waters of Lake Alexandrina are grey with soft swells lapping the low shoreline. A clear road today, this isn’t always the case, occasionally this road can be awash with heavy seasonal rains.
Finally, we arrive at our destination, the historic town of Milang. Entering the town, Port Milang Railway Museum complex catches our eye, then the Anzac Memorial Gardens with its charming old-world rotunda, bowling green and avenue of trees decked out in their autumn finery. A mother strolling with a pram, the man walking his greyhound, an older couple arm in arm, enjoying a walk in the weak afternoon sunlight, give a glimpse of life lived at a gentler pace. Milang Bakery’s enticing aromas drift, beckoning us. Time to purchase a scrumptious wild cherry turnover, and say hi to Nell and Billy, the resident entertainment committee cockatoos, then it’s down to the lakeside reserve for a leisurely lunch beside silver grey melaleuca, watching majestic pelicans glide effortlessly atop the gentle waves.
Milang is jam-packed with interesting snippets of historical information. Coming from Goolwa, I knew of its history, but had only a vague knowledge of the importance of Port Milang to the growth of the local area and beyond. It’s a hidden treasure of our state’s pioneering times, to walk the Nugget Trail was fascinating and illuminating. As Jack and I strolled the old jetty with its hand-operated crane, circa 1859, we looked back towards the brightly coloured lakeside beach shacks, shady caravan park and the Pier Hotel which opened in 1857. I decided this was the day to explore a few of the heritage buildings in the town. Along from the Pier Hotel is a building dating from 1893, the Lakeside Butter Factory, recently restored, now housing a cafe, cellar door, poetry reading and live music venue and a pre-loved book shop. Just a step or two along is Milang old schoolhouse. Opened in 1865, it is now the busy Milang Old School House Community Centre, with two immense gum trees in the front yard. That makes three amazing buildings of a bygone era finding purpose in today’s world.
There is so much more to see in this surprising town, but now Jack and I head home to Goolwa, and a warm fireside. Before we leave, I visit the Milang Post Office, to collect a map designed and researched by school students of Milang. It outlines where to find the heritage buildings, providing a history of each, its purpose then and now – a useful reference for another time. As we turn towards home, we pass the Institute Hall, dated 1884, at one time the local library, now used for community exhibitions and social events.
The day has been long, but special – a road trip back to yesteryear. Driving home we stop to gaze in awe at the newest attraction for Milang.
A creature from a time millennia ago: Milano, a towering dinosaur. So now I’ve seen the oldest and the newest attractions Milang has to offer the intrepid traveller. There will definitely be further road trips for Cap’n Jack and I in the very near future.
Thank you Erica.
